Anselme Selosse is such an individual—and the man most responsible for the revolution that’s changing Champagne for the better. He has become one of the true icons of wine, no less important and admired than Jean-François Coche in Burgundy or Marcel Guigal in Côte Rôtie.

The greatness of Jacques Selosse wines come from a simple idea: to make profound Champagne, you must start with great fruit. In the 1970s, when Anselme Selosse came of age, such an idea was revolutionary. This was, after all, a time when the fruit that went into most Champagnes was of historically low quality, the result of high yields and excessive use of chemicals.